Fixing Pop Up Camper Leaks - How to Do It Yourself
Our new to us Pop Up is in decent shape. And, it has been loved quite a bit. It is 16 years old. So, wear and tear is a part of it. YouTube and Google searches have quickly become my best friend.
When we bought our camper, we looked at it in the rain. No leaks. Sure patches were in place. But, no leaks. However, just after we finished all of our work, we had a leak. The silicone patch along the center seam was allowing water inside and we were under the gun to make these repairs quickly. We didn't want to lose everything we had done, and we had trips already scheduled.
Quickly, I found lots of articles and advice about how to repair seams and work. There is a whole Eternabond camp and replace the original seams with replacement parts camp. We have joined the Enternabond camp. Not because we are lazy and didn't want to repair with factory/replacement parts. But, with our skillset and available equipment and time, this method worked for us.
First, my husband removed the existing center seam that fits down the middle. This requires some time because there is a lot of putty underneath, screws, patching silicone and the seam itself.
The original middle seam had been patched and had served its purpose. In places it was cracking, brittle and completely loose. |
Once the seam was removed, he laid a mark down the center using Stanley 47-442 Chalk Reel with Blue Chalk marking 2 inches to each side of the center seam. This chalk line will help to give a space to work within to finish cleaning any existing goo and to lay down the aluminum sealing tape. Eternabond is one brand. Also if you are having trouble getting up the putty and remaining silicon (if you have this) Goo Gone Pro-Power is perfect to help with this.
We used a 3M Paint and Rust Stripper Brush to work within that 4-inch chalk line to remove any existing paint and any goo down the center. This will create a nice surface to lay the aluminum tape down the middle.
Next, it is time to clean the surface thoroughly along the edges and down the middle with
Acetone. Again, the goal is a clean seal and finish!The Goo Gone and a scraper were used to remove any remaining putty or silicone. We wanted to make sure that we had a good adhesion with the new tape. |
We used a 3M Paint and Rust Stripper Brush to work within that 4-inch chalk line to remove any existing paint and any goo down the center. This will create a nice surface to lay the aluminum tape down the middle.
The wire brush attachment on the drill gave a nice clean surface to work with. |
Next, it is time to clean the surface thoroughly along the edges and down the middle with
Now, replace the existing screws with stainless steel screws all the way down the center seam where the previous ones were. It is important in this step to replace with shorter screws since the center strip is not going back down. And, we also used Gorilla 100% Silicone Sealant, 2.8 oz., Clear on the tips of the screws to create a watertight seal.
New screws to hold everything down and put in with sealant to give a good airtight and water proof seal. |
Working within that 4-inch strip from the chalk line, lay down the WHITE Eternabond Mobile Home RV Rubber Roof Repair or you can use traditional Eternabond aluminum tape. We used aluminum. Because we were planning to paint over the entire job. One complaint that I read over and over is that Eternabond looks tacky on the roof. However, painting allowed us to conceal the aluminum tape strip. Overall, it didn't matter. And one camper stated that he was going for a sealed roof and not looks. Agreed. And, I am camping not making the cover and pretty camper magazine. I can deal with a taped seam, not a leaking roof. Plus, I like the interior of our camper just fine. That was a big part of the project for me, not the exterior.
The aluminum roofing tape was easy to put down. It is important to work in small sections and smoothing with plenty of pressure all the way down to ensure a good seal and to activate the adhesive. |
Finally, we just had a make a decision. We could have hemmed and hawed forever over the correct way to get this done. But, no matter what it was going to be a lot of work and a gamble on what would work. There was also no guarantee that this would work.
One camper suggested that I may have leaks around the AC that had nothing to do with the center seam! There were lots of ways to do this. We decided this and stuck with it!
After the tape, we used white roof paint on the top. There are lots of brands out there. But, selecting a paint specifically for roofs will yield the best results and can possibly help with cooling in the summer. Dicor RPMRC1 Elastomeric Metal RV Roof Coating is one brand that is well known. Kool Seal is another. Go with white. Don't put black on there. That would be terribly hot.
The roofing paint covers the aluminum tape nicely. Once two coats were applied and dried, the tape disappeared and looks really nice! |
As a final step, I sealed any other edges and around other places with Dicor 501LSW-1 Lap Sealant. I read somewhere that it is good to check seals and caulking around any camper every year. It is just part of maintenance. So, here we go with year one for us. I plan on keeping a bit of the aluminum tape and the sealant in our camper for repairs on the road just in case.
That is it. We are happy with the initial results. The original seam had served its purpose. And one reason for taking it off entirely was that in order to lay down the Eternabond, we needed a flatter surface to work with. If we had tried to lay this over the existing seam, it would have worked but been really difficult to work with. This seemed like the best way to go.
Did it hold? Yes. We had a torrential flood the week after we did this repair. Dry as a bone inside. We are both convinced that removing all of the existing strip, glue, putty, and silicone allowed for a good clean bond of the aluminum tape. The roof paint was a bonus. And it really doesn't look too bad!
Finally done! |
I'll update at the end of the spring/summer camping season as to how it had held up. We bought this camper on the cheap with the idea that we wanted to get into family camping with a fixer-upper before spending a ton of cash on something new. Maybe we will upgrade one day. For now, we love our little Peggy Sue. And, we can't wait to start traveling together as a family. A lot of work has gone into getting here.
So, here's to good times ahead and celebrating all of our hard work on the road. I'm sure veteran campers will have ideas as to how we could have done this better. Feel free to comment and share your ideas with us. I'd love to hear all about it. Have a great week and a happy camping season! We are about to embark on our first journey. And, I can't wait to share it with you!
I just found out about this and regret not knowing sooner! Sounds amazing keep up the good work! décor
ReplyDeleteThank you! It's been a lot of work and so much fun at the same time!!
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ReplyDeleteGreat! Thanks for sharing!
DeleteI appreciate everything you have added to my knowledge base.Admiring the time and effort you put into your blog and detailed information you offer.Thanks. HeatonBrosRoof
ReplyDeleteHow has this held up, my roof seam failed and flooded my camper bad!
ReplyDeleteIt has held up well over time. I would advise using specifically Eternabond. The other brands are NOT the same and will not yield the same results. Also, this is going to depend on the actual leak itself and how bad the leak and damage is. Ours was in a specific fault and had not gotten really bad yet. If it is a really bad leak, then this might be a total roof rebuild. This method did work for us and almost 2 years later, we are still dry!
DeleteYou love your RV, and you want it to last for as long as possible. No matter how well you keep your RV maintained and no matter how often you inspect it, some problems always seem to happen. The most common problems RV face is a roof leak. If you’ve noticed leaking in your RV roof, you need to stop it in its tracks before it gets worst. One of the most cost-effective and durable option to repair roof leaks is RV Roof Magic.
ReplyDeleteHas anyone ever thought of giving the whole roof a coat of bondcrete , before painting. This would give the whole surface a polymer waterproof coating. Would like your thoughts people. Because we are thinking of doing it.
ReplyDeleteI am not familiar with this product. However, I noticed when looking it up that it is a product that can be used in motar. My only question would be how much weight it would add to the overall roof. It could work, but I'm not sure. Good luck and let me know how it turns out if you do go this route!
DeleteGreat advice! I don't have a leak yet, but the seams are looking weak. I'm going to do this soon.
ReplyDeleteI'm glad you found this to be helpful. Maintaining a pop up can be a lot of work but it is also rewarding. We really loved ours. Thank you for reading and happy camping!
DeleteSo glad I found this, we started seeing leaking through our pop up camper roof around the center near the AC. I bought a new AC gasket but after removing the AC from our camper I realized that it was most likely the center seam since I could tell it was removed repaired in the past but the caulk was failing. I really don't like that center seam track and this eternabond tape looks like the perfect solution. I've went ahead and removed the seam and cleaned up the seam and now just waiting for the tape to come in the mail.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for sharing, you really helped us out a lot.
Hi! I'm so glad that you found this to be helpful. This fix made a huge difference for us, and held up over time. They do make center seams that you can put down and replace the old seam, but I would still recommend using some eternabond as an extra layer of protection no matter what you do. Good luck and happy camping!
DeleteI wanna ask a question.
ReplyDeleteCan I paint my trailer roof to stop leaks temporarily especially if leaks aren't real big?
I'm going to say no, but maybe I would recommend covering small spots with Eternabond tape then painting over. This would be a better bet. But, holes are tricky. And once the water gets in, you can have have major structural damage and mold in a hurry. Great question though!
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